By Sara Scannell
I knew I was in love with Seville before we even reached our Airbnb! The mundane seemed marvelous as my family and I drove past the ornate Royal Tobacco Factory of Seville (now a university campus), the lively tapas bars spilling onto the sidewalks, and the streets lined with orange trees. It was unlike any other city I’d been to – charming but bustling, storied but bursting with energy. Down every cobblestone alley, I was enchanted by light dancing off historic homes, the flowing bougainvillea, and cute shops bursting with linen goods.
I could have spent a week or more in Seville, but we only had 36 hours to explore before heading to our next destination in Andalucía. Thanks to expert help from locals, it was still an unforgettable weekend. Here’s my guide to all the highlights and must-see spots in Seville – all doable in 36 hours!
Restaurants
Top-notch tapas are the best way to kick off a trip to Spain, and this unassuming spot is a can’t-miss. Ovejas Negras has been featured in the official Michelin Guide, and its ownership group, Ovejas Negras Company, has been featured in Vogue, Elle, Bazaar, and more. I loved the patatas bravas, the burrata and truffle risotto.
I recommend going early because there is usually a wait. If you can’t snag a table at Ovejas Negras, try Mamarracha Tapas across the street, which is also highly recommended.
This Italian restaurant was one of the highlights of my trip. Their tonnarelli al Tartufo – with fresh truffle grated at the table – was sensational. They also had great carbonara,
Carciofi Alla Giudia (an artichoke dish) and pizza.
While this is more of a tourist destination than a local favorite, it’s still worth a visit. This rooftop bar is right next to the famed Seville Cathedral and has a spectacular view of the historic masterpiece. The drinks are slightly more expensive than the surrounding tapas bars, but the experience is worth it.
While I love tapas and the famous jamon Iberico, I occasionally craved a more plant-based meal during my trip. Fatouch offers a delicious respite from heavy meats and cheeses with a fantastic menu of Mediterranean classics with fresh ingredients.
Jester Café is a favorite local spot for anyone craving a fun, American-influenced breakfast. They offer great coffee along with acai bowls, smoothies, breakfast sandwiches, and pastries – all with a Spanish twist.
There are too many dessert options to name, and with gelato shops and bakeries on nearly every corner, you can’t go wrong. El Monasterio Heladeria Artesania was one of my favorite gelato spots. Be sure to get churros with chocolate sauce, too.
If you want to sound like a local, order Tinto de Verano instead of sangria. It’s a similar cocktail that’s slightly cheaper, made with red wine and Fanta or a similar juice. Trust me, it’s the go-to for residents of Seville!
Landmarks and Activities
Plaza De España is truly breathtaking. The complex was originally built in 1928 for the Ibero-American Exposition World Fair (along with many other landmarks in Seville) and is now a free public park for locals and visitors to enjoy. If you have time, you can even take a boat ride around the plaza’s small river.
The Guadalquivir River runs through Seville, and one of the interesting spots along its banks is the historic Torre del Oro. This 13th-century watchtower is another architectural marvel to check out while exploring the river.
The Alcazar is another truly unique experience. This UNESCO World Heritage Site dates back to the 11th century and is the oldest European royal palace still in use today. The architecture was informed by centuries of mixing cultures and religions, combining Islamic, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, and Romantic styles, as well as traditional Islamic and Christian traditions. Its rich history is fascinating, and the Moorish artistic influence really makes the Alcazar stand out. There is so much to see and learn that I highly recommend taking a guided tour.
Catedral De Sevilla, right across the Plaza del Triunfo from the Alcazar, is another important landmark in Seville. Since we had a tight schedule, we prioritized a full tour of the Alcazar instead of the cathedral. However, if you have the time, I suggest getting a tour of both.
Flamenco was born in Seville, so there’s no better place to see it. We went to a local favorite, La Casa del Flamenco. In this intimate environment, you will experience a variety of flamenco styles, as well as beautiful classical guitar and music. I was surprised by the emotional and sometimes mournful style of dancing and music, which also has deep historical roots and Moorish influences. The show is only an hour long, so you need to make time for a quick visit!
Tips
Seville and the Andalucía have fewer fluent English speakers than some other parts of Spain. I highly recommend brushing up on your Spanish beforehand so that you can effectively communicate while you're there.
Make sure to pop into one of the pharmacies in the region. In many of them, you’ll find some of the best clean skincare products at much better prices than in American stores.
If you’re looking to learn a lot about the city in a short amount of time, a Tuk Tuk tour is a great option. We took an hour-long tour that showed us all over the city and gave us a thorough history of many buildings and landmarks we wouldn’t have discovered on our own.
July and June can get very hot, so I would suggest traveling outside of the summer months since air-conditioning is not very common.
Even in 36 hours or less, the food, culture, local hospitality, and breathtaking architecture in Seville absolutely charmed me. I am already looking forward to my next trip to Spain to explore even more of this beautiful city.
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